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THE 

KHAKI KOOK BOOK 



A Collection of a Hundred Cheap and 

Practical Recipes Mostly from 

Hindustan. 

By 
MARY KENNEDY CORE 

Bareilly, India. 



Printed for the Author 

by 

THE ABINGDON PRESS 



,C7 



Copyright, 1917, by 
Mary Kennedy Core. 



DEC 22 1917 

©CLA479643 



Preface. 



WHY THIS LITTLE BOOK. 

About ten years ago the idea of writing a 
little cook book had its birth. We were in 
Almora that summer. Almora is a station far 
up in the Himalayas, a clean 
little bazaar nestles at the 
foot of enclosing mountains. 
Dotting the deodar-covered 
slopes of these mountains are 
the picturesque bungalows of 
the European residents, while 
towering above and over all 
are the glistening peaks of the 
eternal snows. 

We love to think of this 
particular summer, for Lila- 
vate Singh was with us. The 
thought of her always brings 
help and inspiration. 

One day she prepared for 
the crowd of us a tiffin of 
delicious Hindustani food, 
while we were sitting under 
fragrance of the deodar trees, we praised 
the tiffin. Before we knew it we were plan- 

3 




That afternoon 
the shade and 



4 PREFACE. 

ning a cook book. It was to be a joint 
affair of Hindustani and English dishes, and 
Miss Singh was to be responsible for the Hin- 
dustani part of it. Our enthusiasm grew. For 
three or four days we talked of nothing else. 
We experimented, we planned; we dreamed, we 
wrote. But alas ! other things soon thrust them- 
selves upon us, and our unfinished cook book 
was pigeon-holed for years and years. 

And it is not now what it would have been if 
finished then. 

Many of the recipes, however, are those that 
Miss Singh gave us then. Some of them she 
might not recognize, for they have become quite 
Americanized, but they are hers nevertheless, 
and I hope that you will not only try them and 
enjoy them, but that they will help you to solve 
some of the problems of living and giving which 
are confronting us all these days. 

I have told this story before, but it fits in 
well here. A lady in India once had an ayah, 
who from morning until night sang the same 
sad song as she would wheel the baby in its 
little go-cart up and down the mandal or drive- 
way; as she would energetically jump it up and 
down ; as she would lazily pat it to sleep, always 
and ever she could be heard chanting plaintively 
"Ky a ke waste, Ky a ke waste, pet ke waste, 
pet ke waste/ ' 

The lady's curiosity was aroused. The 



PREFACE. 5 

words were simple enough, but they had no 
sense: "For why? For why? For why? For 
stomach ! For stomach ! For stomach !' ' wailed 
the ayah. 

Desiring to know what was for why, and 
what was for stomach one day, the lady called 
the ayah to her and sought the interpretation 
thereof. 

"This is the meaning, Oh mem sahiba," said 
the ayah : • 'Why do we live ? What is the mean- 
ing of our existence? To fill our stomachs, to 
fill our stomachs.' ' 

You may smile at this and feel sorry for the 
poor benighted Hindu, who has such a low ideal 
of the meaning of life, but after all we cannot 
ignore the fact that we must eat, and that much 
as we dislike to acknowledge it, we are com- 
pelled to think a great deal about filling our 
stomachs. This is especially true these days, 
when prices have soared and soared and taken 
along with them, far out of the reach of many 
of us, certain articles of food which we hereto- 
fore have always felt were quite necessary to us. 

The missionary on furlough is naturally re- 
garded as a bureau of information regarding the 
land where he has lived and worked. Many 
are the questions asked. These questions are 
inclusive of life and experience in general, but 
in particular they are regarding the food. 
"What do you eat there? Do you get meat 



6 PREFACE. 

there? What kind of vegetables grow there? 
What about the fruit of India? Why don't mis- 
sionaries do their own cooking? Do the cooks 
there cook well? Aren't you always glad to get 
back to the food in America ?" These and sim- 
ilar questions are sure to be asked the missionary 
and others who have lived in foreign countries. 

Feeling sure that everybody wants to know 
these very things about India, it might be well 
just here to answer some of these questions. 

In regard to the meat in India: The Hindus 
are vegetarians, but the Mohammedans are 
great meat eaters. So are the English. Meat 
can be had almost every place. The kind of 
meat differs much in locality. Chickens can be 
obtained anywhere. The Indian cock is small 
of head and long of leg, shrill of voice and bold 
in spirit. The Indian hen is shy and wild, but 
gives plenty of small, delicately-flavored eggs. 
On the whole, aside from a few idiosyncrasies, 
the Indian fowl is very satisfactory. 

In large cities like Bombay, Calcutta, Luck- 
now, Madras, etc., where there is a large English 
population, any kind of meat may be obtained. 
In other places only goat meat can be obtained. 
This is especially true in many hill stations. 
Even in small places, if there happens to be a 
large Mohammedan population, good beef and 
mutton can be obtained in the cold weather, 
and in many larger places where there are few 



PREFACE. 7 

Mohammedans no meat of any kind is to be 
found excepting chicken, and one usually has 
to raise them himself. 

Meat is cheap in India. Indeed, in some 
places beef can be bought for two cents a pound. 
However, it is not so good as is the beef in 
America. In the hot weather, as it has to be 
eaten almost as soon as it is killed, it is tough 
and tasteless. 

Vegetables differ, too, according to the 
locality. If Mrs. A, returned missionary from 
India, pathetically states that year in and year 
out she never gets any home vegetables, and 
thereby causes everybody to pity her, and if 
Mrs. B, returned missionary from India, boasts 
that she gets plenty of home vegetables, even 
better than she could get in America, and thereby 
causes everybody to envy her, don't think that 
either Mrs. A or Mrs. B have fibbed. Mrs. B 
lives up north and Mrs. A lives south, and both 
speak truthfully. 

The same is true in regard to fruits. Certain 
fruits, such as the citrus fruits, the unexcelled 
mango bananas, etc., are found all over India; 
but in certain sections there are not only these, 
but all the home fruits. This section is to the 
north and northwest. Pears, apples, peaches, 
plums — in fact, any fruit that can be grown any 
place in the world can be grown successfully in 
this favored section of India. 



8 PREFACE. 

"Why don't missionary ladies do their own 
cooking?" 

The idea seems to be abroad that the reason 
that missionaries in India do not do more 
manual labor is because they have a certain 
dignity that they must maintain; that they 
would lose caste and influence should they do 
menial work of any kind. This is quite a mis- 
taken idea. One of the things that a missionary 
stands for is serving, serving by hands and 
feet as well as by brain and spirit. The simple 
reason is that missionaries are employed by the 
missionary society to do other things. It isn't 
a question of giving eight hours a day to mission 
work, but it's a question of giving all the time. 

But suppose she hadn't her hands so full of 
mission work, even then she could not do her 
own cooking. 

Perhaps she might do some of it if she had 
an up-to-date little kitchen, with linoleum on 
the floor, if there were a sink and a gas range, 
and all sorts of lovely pots and pans, but alas! 
in India there is not even a kitchen. It is a 
cook-house, and is quite detached from the rest 
of the house. If she cooked there, the mis- 
sionary lady would have to keep running back 
and forth in the hot sun or in the pouring rain 
of the monsoon. There is no linoleum — only a 
damp, uneven stone floor, and there is no sink — 
all the work requiring water is done on the floor 



PREFACE. 9 

by a drain-pipe, and sometimes if the screen 
gets broken over the mouth of the drain-pipe, 
toads come hopping in, and sometimes even 
cobras come squirming through. The Indian 
cook-house is always dark and smoky. There 
is no little gas range; just a primitive cooking 
place made of bricks plastered together. This 
contains a number of holes in which are inserted 
grates. Charcoal fires are burning in these 
little grates. Charcoal has to be fanned and 
fanned with a black and grimy fan to get it 
into the glowing stage. Of course a clean fan 
would do as well, but one never sees a clean fan 
in an Indian cook-house. 

However, do not suppose for a minute that 
the missionary lady has no responsibility regard- 
ing the cooking. She has. She cooks with her 
nerves and brains. She has to train up the cook 
in the way he should go, and after he has gotten 
into the way, she has to walk along by his side, 
for she must be brains for him for ever and ever. 
She has to see that he walks in paths of truth 
and uprightness. She has to keep everything 
under lock and key, and is apt to lose her keys 
when she is in the biggest hurry. She is also 
apt to lose her temper, and feels worse over this 
than she does when she loses her keys. She has 
to argue over prices; to fuss over the quality of 
charcoal consumed. She has to keep her poise 
when, after ordering something especially nice 



10 PREFACE. 

for dinner, the cook proudly passes around some- 
thing quite different and not at all nice. She 
dare not even visit her own cook-house without 
coughing and making a noise, for fear that she 
will have a case of discipline on hands that may- 
leave her without a cook. Verily, she is not 
deceived by the fact that when she enters the 
cook-house the cook and half a dozen other 
men who have been playing cards and smoking 
are respectively standing around like little tin 
soldiers. She sees the hooka or big water pipe 
standing behind the door, and she knows that 
the bearer has a deck of cards up his sleeves. 
But even knowing this, all she can do is to 
meekly transact her business with the cook and 
go out without saying a word. 

However, in spite of all this, the Indian cook 
is a great comfort. He grows on one. It is 
surprising how equal he is to emergencies and 
what really fine things he can make with very 
few conveniences and often a very stinted al- 
lowance of material. There are very few of 
them who do not take pride in their cooking, 
and they are never happier than when there are 
guests in the home and they are having a chance 
to show off. Nor are they uncleanly, as is often 
supposed, but they keep their kitchen in such 
mild disorder that things really appear much 
worse than they really are. 

And now for the last question. Often and 



PREFACE. 11 

often we are asked, "Aren't you glad to get 
back to the food in America?" My answer is, 
"Rather," and it is to be spoken with a rising 
inflection. 

We love the American people, and we enjoy 
the American food, but we think that when it 
comes to making nice tasty somethings out of 
almost nothing, America is not in it at all. 
Nearly every nation in the world can do better. 

I hope these recipes will help. 



Contents. 

Page 

Chapter I. Curry 15 

1. Curry Powder. 2. Beef Curry. 3. Chicken 
Curry. 4. Curry with Curds. 5. Meat Curry with 
Pastry. 6. Meat Curry with Cabbage. 7. Meat 
and Split Pea Curry. 8. Massala Fry. 9. Ham- 
burg Steak Curry. 10. Cold Meat Curry. 11. 
Buffath, or Curry with Vegetables. 12. Buffath of 
Cold Meat and Vegetables. 13. Fish Curry. 14. 
Curry from Tinned Salmon, Sardines, or Tuna. 
15. Salt Fish Curry. 16. Massala Fry of Fish. 
17. Egg Curry. 18. Poached Egg Curry. 19. 
Eggplant Curry. 20. Curried Stuffed Eggplant. 
21. Stuffed Curried Mango Peppers. 22. Mixed 
Vegetable Curry. 23. Split Pea Curry. 24. Edible 
Leaves Curry. 

Chapter II. Savory Dishes from Other Coun- 
tries 30 

25. Mulligatawney Soup. 26. Tamales (Mexican). 
27. Koorma (Arabian). 28. Spiced Beef. 29. 
Irish Stew (Old English). 30. Mesopotamia Stew. 
31. French Stew. 32. Turkish Stew. 33. All 
Blaze. 34. Country Captain. 35. Toad in Hole. 
36. Minced Meat Patties. 37. Hamburg Cutlets. 
38. Potato Patties with Fish or Meat. 39. Beef 
Olives. 40. Bird Nests. 41. Eggplant Patties. 
42. Spanish Steak. 43. Spanish Welsh Rarebit. 
44. Kabobs. 45. Char-chiz. 46. Spanish Eggs. 

Chapter III. Split Peas or Dal 43 

47. Split Pea Soup. 48. Dal Soup with Milk. 49. 
Kidgeri. 50. Armenian Kidgeri. 51. Dal Bhat. 

Chapter IV. Rice 46 

52. Plain Boiled Rice. 53. Pesh-Pash. 54. Pullao. 
55. Beef or Mutton Pullao. 56. Spanish Rice. 57. 
Pea Pullao. 58. Cocoanut Rice. 59. Meat and 
Rice Hash. 60. Rice Cutlets. 61. Fried Rice 
(Parsi). 

13 



14 CONTENTS. 

Page 

Chapter V. Bujeas 54 

62. Potato Bujea. 63. Banana Bujea. 64. Sum- 
mer Squash Bujea. 65. Cabbage Bujea. 66. 
Radish Bujea. 67. Tomato Bujea. 

Chapter VI. Breads 57 

68. Chupatties. 69. Chupatties (Americanized). 
70. Prahatas. 71. Potato Puris. 72. White Flour 
Puris. 73. Sweet Potato Puris. 

Chapter VII. Pickles and Chutneys 61 

74. Kausaundi Pickle (Americanized). 

Chapter VIII. Chutney 63 

75. Lemon Chutney. 76. Apple Chutney. 77. 
Rhubarb Chutney. 78. Carrot Pickle. 79. Mixed 
Vegetable Pickle. 

Chapter IX. Most Everything 66 

80. Puff Paste. 81. Cheese Cakes. 82. Banana 
Stew with Cocoanut. 83. Roselle Jelly. 84. 
Roselle Sauce. 85. Tipparee Jam. 86. Orange 
Marmalade. 87. Orange Jelly. 88. Candied 
Grapefruit Peel. 89. Banana Cheese. 90. Carrot 
Cheese. 91. Fruit Cheese. 92. Fools. 93. Jella- 
bies. 94. Gulab Jamans. 95. Malpuas. 96. 
Crow's Nest Fritters. 97. Hulwa. 98. Bombay 
Hulwa. 99. Turkish Delight. 100. Frosted Ba- 
nanas. 101. Sujee Puffs. 102. Breadcrumb Balls. 
103. Sujee Biscuits. 



The Khaki Kook Book. 



i. 

Curry. 



Many regard curry as one of the new things 
in cookery. This is a mistake. Curry is an old, 
old method of preparing meats and vegetables. 




MAKING CHAPATIES 



Nor is it an East Indian method exclusively. 
In all Oriental and tropical countries foods are 
highly seasoned, and although the spices may 
differ, and although the methods of preparation 
may not be the same, nevertheless, generally 
speaking, the people of all Oriental countries 
freely indulge in curried food. 

15 



16 CURRY. 

However, in India curry reaches its perfec- 
tion. The people of India since Vedic times have 
eaten curry and always will. They eat it very, 
very hot, and Europeans who live in India soon 
find themselves falling into the habit of eating 
very hot and spicy foods. Whether it is good 
for one to eat as much hot stuff as one is expected 
to eat in India is a disputed point. In modera- 
tion, however, curry is not harmful, and is a 
very satisfactory and appetizing way of prepar- 
ing scrappy and inexpensive meats. If carefully 
prepared, everybody is sure to like it. Do not 
introduce it, however, to your family as a 
mustard-colored stew of curry powder, onions, 
and cold meat served in the center of a platter 
with a wall of gummy rice enclosing it. Most of 
the family would hate it, and it would be diffi- 
cult to get them to the point of even tasting it 
again. Curry, as usually made in India, is 
not made with curry powder at all. Every 
Indian cook-house is provided with a smooth 
black stone about a foot and a half long and a 
foot wide. There is also a small stone roller. 
On this large stone, by means of the small stone, 
daily are crushed or ground the spices used in 
making curry. The usual ingredients are cori- 
ander seeds and leaves, dried hot chillis or 
peppers, caraway seeds, turmeric, onions, garlic, 
green ginger, and black pepper grains. All 
these are first crushed a little and' then ground 



CURRY. 17 

to a paste, with the addition from time to time 
of a little water. 

Now of course no American housewife 
would want to squat on the floor and grind up 
curry stuff on a stone, as do the women of India. 
So I hasten to say that very good curry may be 
made from curry powder. Curry powder may 
be obtained from almost any grocer. The 
best in the market is Cross & Blackwell's. 

A good plan, however, would be to make 
your own curry powder. It is better, much 
cheaper, and is very little trouble to make. 

The following formula is excellent: 

1. Curry Powder. 

10 ounces of coriander seed; 
1 teaspoon of caraway seed; 
1 teaspoon of black pepper, 
1 teaspoon of red pepper; 
6 teaspoons of turmeric; 
4 tablespoons of flour; 
1 teaspoon of cloves; 
4 teaspoons of cinnamon ; 
Seeds of six cardamons. 

The coriander and turmeric may have to be 
purchased at a drug store. Buy as many of the 
spices ground as you can, and grind the others 
in a small hand-mill or coffee-mill. Sift to- 
gether three or four times and dry thoroughly 



18 CURRY. 

in an expiring oven. Put in air-tight bottles. 
A pound of meat will require about two tea- 
spoons of this mixture. If not hot enough add 
more red pepper. 

Coriander. — You will note that coriander is 
the chief ingredient of curry powder. Coriander 
is used extensively in flavoring throughout the 
East. It can be grown any place, however. 
The seed can be obtained from any large florist. 
It grows rank like a weed. The leaves are 
delicious as a flavoring for meats and vegetables. 
A patch of this in your vegetable garden will 
repay you, as many a bit of left-over can be 
made very tasty by using a little of the finely 
minced leaf. The seeds are useful in many ways. 

Fresh Cocoanut is another ingredient fre- 
quently used in making curries. This gives a 
delicious flavor and also adds greatly to the 
nutritive value. A cocoanut paste is prepared 
by a very elaborate process in the Indian cook- 
house, but in this country we are not only con- 
fronted by the problem of living on our so many 
dollars a month, but also by the equally great 
one of living on twenty-four hours a day. So 
we will pass the method of preparing cocoanut 
by with the suggestion that you buy your pre- 
pared cocoanut. Baker puts up an excellent 
preparation of fresh cocoanut with the milk. 
This comes in small tins at ten cents a tin. 

Making curry is a very elastic method. 



CURRY. 19 

Much depends upon the taste of the individual. 
Some think a teaspoonful of prepared mustard 
or Worcestershire sauce a great improvement. 

Always get cheap cuts of meat for curry. 
The hock or heel of beef makes perhaps as fine 
curry as any other cut. 

There are many different kinds of curries. 
Some are so hot that the consumer thereof may 
feel that he is the possessor of an internal fiery 
furnace. Some are mustard-colored, some are 
almost black, some are thin and watery, some 
are thick, some are greasy, and some would be 
quite impossible for America. 

Onions are always used in making curry, 
but do not let this discourage any one who does 
not like onions. One reason that onions are 
so unpopular is that so often they are im- 
properly cooked. In making curry onions 
should be cooked until they are perfectly soft. 
Indeed they should be reduced to a pulp. This 
pulp helps thicken the curry gravy, and many 
people who claim that they cannot eat onions 
really enjoy them without realizing what they 
are eating. 

The recipes which follow are all practical, 
inexpensive, delicious, and thoroughly reliable. 

2. Beef Curry, 

Cut a pound of fresh beef into bits. Any 
cheap cut does well for this. Slice an onion 



20 CURRY, 

very thinly, and fry together in a dessert-spoon- 
ful of fat of any kind, the meat, onion, and two 
teaspoonfuls of curry powder. When they are 
nicely browned add several cups of water and 
simmer gently until the meat is very tender and 
the onion has become a pulp, thereby thickening 
the curry gravy. This requires long, slow cook- 
ing. More water may be added from time to 
time. If one has a fireless cooker, it should al- 
ways be used in curry making. Serve with rice 
prepared according to taste. In India, curry 
and rice are always served in separate dishes. 
The rice is served first and the curry taken 
out and put over it. Usually chutney (Chap- 
ter VIII) is eaten with curry and rice. 

3. Chicken Curry. 

Cut a chicken up any way you like and fry 
it with one thinly-sliced onion and the curry 
powder. The amount of curry powder will of 
course depend on the size of the chicken. Fry 
together until the chicken is nicely browned, 
then add water and simmer until chicken is 
tender. Remember always to reduce the gravy 
by slow cooking until it is somewhat thickened 
by the onion pulp. A couple of sliced tomatoes 
fried with the chicken, onion, and curry powder 
is much liked by some — not only in chicken 
curry, but in all curries. 



CURRY. 21 

4. Curry With Curds. 

This curry is prepared a little differently. 
Place in a deep dish one pound of beef or mut- 
ton or any kind of meat. Cover with thick 
curds of milk. These curds should not be too 
sour. Also add a green mango pepper thinly 
sliced, and if desired a clove of garlic, finely 
minced. Let stand in the curds for a couple of 
hours. In the meantime fry an onion and two 
teaspoonfuls of curry powder together. When 
nicely browned add the curd mixture. Cook 
over a slow fire until meat is tender. Cold sliced 
meat is very good prepared this way. In this 
case cook the onions thoroughly before adding 
the curd mixture. The meat should be cut in 
small pieces. 

5. Meat Curry with Pastry. 

Prepare the curry as in No. 1, adding the 
dumplings after the meat is tender. For the 
dumplings, mix half a cup of flour into a stiff 
dough with water. Add a little salt, and roll 
out very thin. Cut in two-inch squares. Some 
like a little fresh cocoanut and cocoanut milk 
added to this curry. 

6. Meat Curry with Cabbage. 

Half a pound of meat is plenty for this very 
hearty and inexpensive dish. 



22 CURRY. 

Fry the onion, curry powder, and meat to- 
gether in the usual way. When nicely browned, 
add several cups of thinly-shredded or sliced 
cabbage. Cover with water and simmer slowly 
until all are tender. Just before serving acid- 
ulate. In India, tamarind juice is always used 
for this purpose, but lemon or lime does very 
nicely. Carrots or turnips may be used the 
same way and are excellent. Eat with or with- 
out rice. Usually this curry is eaten with 
chupatties (No. 69). 

7. Meat and Split Pea Curty. 

Cut a half pound of beef or mutton into 
small bits and fry as usual with onions and curry 
powder. When nicely browned add a cup of 
split peas which have been soaking for several 
hours. Simmer all together in plenty of water 
until the meat and peas are tender. Serve with 
rice. 

8. Massala Fry. 

This is not really a curry, but is an excellent 
way of preparing tough round steak. 

Mix two teaspoonfuls of curry powder into 
a half cup of flour, and pound by means of a 
saucer into a pound of round steak. Fry the 
steak with a sliced onion until quite brown. 
Then add a little water and simmer until the 
meat is tender. The gravy should be little and 



CURRY. 23 

rich. Do not cut the meat. This is a fine 
casserole dish. 

9. Hamburg Steak Curry. 

Fry together a pound of hamburg steak, a 
cup of minced onions, and two teaspoonfuls of 
curry powder. When these are quite brown 
simmer with a little water until onions are soft. 
This can either be served rather dry or with 
plenty of gravy. In the latter case, serve with 
rice or kidgeri (No. 49). A teaspoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce is a help to this curry. 
This curry is very nice and is quickly made. 
Made dry, a little jar of it taken to a picnic or 
on a trip will be found very useful, as it keeps 
for days. Indeed, all curried me£ts keep longer 
than meats prepared in other ways. Hamburg 
steak curry makes fine sandwiches. 

10. Cold Meat Curry. 

Any kind of cold meat may be made into 
curry. Fry onions and curry powder together 
until nicely browned. Then add enough flour 
to thicken, as in making gravy. Then add water 
or cocoanut milk. When gravy has thickened, 
add cold meat. Simmer slowly for a while. 
This curry is not so tasty as those made from 
fresh meat, and it is well to add a teaspoonful 
of Worcestershire sauce. 



24 CURRY. 

11. Buffath, or Curry with Vegetables. 

Fry one-half pound of meat, finely diced, 
with onion and curry powder. Add a little 
water from time to time, so that the meat will 
be tender and the onions soft. Then add two 
teacupfuls of water. As soon as water boils 
add a cupful of sliced radishes, potatoes, carrots, 
or any vegetables that will not mash. Cook 
slowly together until vegetables are soft. In 
India this curry is always acidulated, but that 
is not necessary. It is a good plan, however, to 
always serve sliced lemon with all curries, as 
some prefer them sour. 



12. Buffath of Cold Meat and Vegetables. 

Prepare a sauce or gravy, as in No. 10. Add 
cold meat and any left-over cold vegetable. 
Simmer gently together for a little while. Do 
not have too much sauce. 

13. Fish Curry. 

Fish curry is usually made with cocoanut 
milk instead of water, but this is not necessary. 
It should always be acidulated. 

Prepare a sauce, as in No. 10, using, if pre- 
ferred, cocoanut milk instead of water. Also 
add a little finely-minced garlic and green 
peppers. Put the raw fish in this and simmer 



CURRY. 25 

together until the fish is cooked. Serve with 
rice. Spanish rice is excellent with fish curry. 
(No. 56.) 

14. Curry from Tinned Salmon, Sardines, 
or Tuna. 

Prepare a sauce as in No. 10, using cocoanut 
milk and a little grated cocoanut. Also add a 
tiny bit of thinly-sliced green ginger, garlic, and 
chili pepper. Pour over the fish, and serve with 
rice and sliced lemon. 

15. Salt Fish Curry. 

Cut the salt fish into rather small pieces, and 
soak until no longer very salty. 

While it is soaking, fry in plenty of oil or 
crisco one bunch of green onions, cut up tops 
and all, a teaspoonful of curry powder, and 
three half-ripe tomatoes. The tomatoes may 
be dipped in batter or crumbs. When these 
are fried add the salt fish. Simmer together for 
a while. Serve with rice. Eggplant is excellent 
in this curry instead of tomatoes. 

16. Massala Fry of Fish. 

Make a paste of flour and water and two 
teaspoons of curry powder and a little salt. Dip 
the fish in this curried paste, and then dip again 
in bread or cracker crumbs. Fry in the usual 



26 CURRY. 

way. This is a delicious way of preparing any 
kind of cutlets or chops. In fact, any kind of 
meat may be fried in the same way. 

17. Egg Curry. 

Fry a sliced onion with a teaspoonful of 
curry powder; then add a little flour for the 
gravy. When this is mixed quite smooth, add 
a teacup of water or milk or cocoanut milk. 
Cook until it thickens, then add six hard-boiled 
eggs. Cut in halves lengthwise. Serve with 
rice. 

18. Poached Egg Curry. 

Prepare the curry as for No. 17. When 
gravy begins to simmer, poach the eggs in it. 

19. Eggplant Curry. 

Cut round slices of eggplant. Remove the 
outer rind, dip each slice in batter and fry. 

Make the curry sauce in the usual way. 
When it thickens, carefully put in the eggplant; 
simmer gently together until the vegetables are 
well cooked. This is excellent made with half- 
ripe tomatoes. In each case it is a fine meat 
substitute. Always serve with rice. 

20. Curried Stuffed Eggplant. 

Make a curry mince as for No. 9. See that 
when the meat is cooked there is plenty of 



CURRY. 27 

liquid. Thicken this mince and gravy with 
bread crumbs and let stand. Cut the eggplant 
in half lengthwise, and steam or bake in a very 
slow oven. When about half cooked, scoop out 
the center of about each half. Be careful to 
save the vegetable that you scoop out and mix 
it with the curry and bread-crumb mixture. 
Stuff the eggplant shell with this mixture, cover 
the top with crumbs, and bake. Excellent 
either hot or cold. A half pound of meat is 
enough to nicely stuff one eggplant. 

21. Stuffed Curried Mango Peppers. 

To prepare the mango peppers for stuffing, 
cut off the tops and remove the seeds. Let 
stand in salt water until required. Then prepare 
plenty of rice according to No. 52. Keep in a 
warm place until required. 

Fry Hamburg steak with onion and curry 
powder according to No. 9. A pound of steak 
will be plenty for a nice big dish of peppers. 
Use no water in this mince, but when the meat 
and onions are partially fried add a cupful of 
the boiled rice, and mix all together. Stuff the 
peppers with this mixture of rice and meat. 

Put in a roaster and cover with tomato 
sauce. This sauce may be made from any- 
tinned tomato soup, diluted and more highly 
seasoned, or it may be made from stewed 
tomatoes from which the seeds and skins 



28 CURRY. 

have been removed. Make sauce a little thick. 
Bake very slowly or steam. Serve with the 
remainder of the rice. 

This is such a hearty dish that one needs 
prepare nothing else to be served with it. 

22. Mixed Vegetable Curry. 

All vegetables suchias peas, beans, potatoes, 
carrots, etc., make excellent curry. They may 
be either freshly prepared or left overs. 

Fry them all together with plenty of onions 
in a little crisco; add as much curry powder as 
is desired. If tomatoes are not used, acidulate 
a combination of tomatoes, eggplant, and 
peppers. Makes a fine curry. These vegetable 
curries are usually eaten with chupatties (No. 69). 

23. Split Pea Curry. 

Soak the peas for two or three hours. Fry 
in the usual way the onion and curry powder. 
A teaspoonful of curry powder is enough for a 
cupful of soaked peas. Mix the peas with the 
fried mixture. Add plenty of water and cook 
until the peas are soft enough to mash up into 
a pulp. Serve with rice. An acid is desired 
with this curry. 

24. Edible Leaves Curry. 

This may not sound especially inviting, but 
in a pinch one might want to try it. The Hindus 



CURRY. 29 

make curries from many things that we would 
throw away. Turnip tops, beet tops, radish 
tops, the young and tender leaves of many 
jungle plants, also the leaves of many trees; all 
these are used in making excellent curries. 
Dandelion greens, spinach, Swiss chard, may all 
be used in the same way. Prepare the onion 
and curry powder in the usual way; then add 
the greens. It is a good plan to add a few 
potatoes to give body to the curry. Use very 
little water in cooking. Serve with puris ior 
chupallis. (Nos. 69, 71). 




II. 

Savory Dishes from Other 
Countries. 

One of the economies in cooking is in the 
proper seasoning of foods. This is the secret of 
many an attractive dish made from left-overs, 
or cheap meats. Every garden should contain a 
little patch of mint, parsley, sage, coriander, 
while those who have no garden could easily 
grow these in window boxes or pots. It is not 
an extravagance to have on hand plenty of 
pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, kitchen 
bouquet, and condiments of various kinds. A 
little of these goes a long way in seasoning, and 
many a dish which would be very flat and un- 
attractive, by their judicious use is made savory 
and satisfying. 

Garlic is also another seasoning which we 
use but little, but which is used most extensively 

30 



SAVORY DISHES. 31 

throughout the Orient. If properly used it gives 
a delightful flavor to food. Very little is re- 
quired. Indeed, often one needs to just rub 
the sides and bottom of the cooking vessel with 
the garlic before putting it on the fire. The 
salad dish may be treated the same way. How- 
ever, very few would object to a little finely- 
minced garlic in almost any meat dish, and much 
in flavor is often gained thereby. 

Most of the recipes which follow are quite 
new to Americans. 

25. Mulligatawney Soup. 

This is a very famous soup which has been 
associated with India since the beginning of the 
English regime. In India it is usually made 
with chicken, but beef or mutton do very 
nicely. Stew a pound of mutton. Scrappy 
mutton, such as neck or ribs, does very nicely. 
When meat is tender remove from soup. 

Fry an onion with a teaspoonful of curry 
powder. When nicely browned stir into it a 
tablespoonful of peanut butter; also about a 
half cup of fresh cocoanut. Mix these up to- 
gether to a smooth paste and add to the mutton 
broth. Also pick the mutton from the bones 
and add to the soup. If the peanut butter does 
not thicken it sufficiently, thicken with a little 
flour. Serve with rice. Sometimes the rice is 



32 SAVORY DISHES. 

boiled with the mutton, but usually it is boiled 
separately (No. 52). Lemon juice is usually 
served with this soup. 

26. Tamales (Mexican). 

Take a pound of meat. Mutton, chicken, or 
beef may be used. It must be cut in bits. If 
the meat has not sufficient fat, add crisco or 
butter, or whatever one uses. Stew until meat 
is very tender. Into this soup add a cup of 
tomato sauce or a cup of boiled and strained 
tomatoes highly seasoned. Then stir in enough 
cornmeal to thicken it as for mush. Cook for a 
few minutes and then turn all into a rice boiler 
or steamer, and cook until the cornmeal loses 
its raw taste. When a little cool, add a few 
raisins, ripe olives, almonds, or peanuts, the 
latter cut up fine. Make pretty hot with 
cayenne, and also add a little pimento. Mold 
into little rolls, and wrap each roll up in corn 
husks, tying each end, so that the mixture will 
not escape. Just before eating, steam up again, 
and serve hot. If one is in a hurry, a dish can 
be lined with corn husks, the mixture piled in, 
and corn husks placed over the top of the dish. 
This is called "tamale pie." If corn husks are 
not available, it is very good without them. 
The mixture can either be steamed in a bowl and 
turned out or it can be sliced cold and fried like 



34 SAVORY DISHES. 

28. Spiced Beef. 

This is a very nice way of keeping beef if the 
weather is hot and one has no ice. Cut the meat 
up, salt a little, turn it into a bowl, and just 
cover with vinegar. Sprinkle well with mixed 
spices. When ready to use, fry with tomatoes 
and onions. This may be kept for several days 
without ice, even in the hottest weather. 

29. Irish Stew (Old English). 

Equal parts of meat and potatoes. Half a 
pound of meat and half a pound of potatoes 
makes quite a good-sized dish. Cook the meat 
with a sliced onion in plenty of water until it 
is almost tender. Then add the potatoes; also 
a little mint or parsley, a tiny bit of green 
ginger, and a sprinkle of cinnamon, salt and 
plenty of pepper. Cook together until all are 
sufficiently cooked. At the last, if mutton has 
been used, add half a cup of milk. Thicken a 
little if desired, only perhaps it is best to cook 
it until potatoes begin to break, thickening it in 
that way. 

30. Mesopotamia Stew. 

Equal parts of meat and stringbeans. Fry 
together with or without an onion. When quite 
brown but not hard, season well in any way 
liked. In Mesopotamia, of course it is made 



SAVORY DISHES. 35 

very hot. Cover with water and cook slowly 
until beans are soft and meat is tender. Less 
meat may be used. Beans and meat should both 
be cut up fine for this stew. 

31. French Stew. 

Take a pound of beef cut in small pieces 
and fry it until brown. Remove and fry in the 
same pan the following vegetables: Three small 
radishes, three small carrots, three small onions, 
half a dozen potatoes, a little green ginger, a 
green chili or two, and three or four mint leaves. 
The ginger, chili, and mint leaves should be 
finely minced, but slice the other vegetables. 
When the vegetables are nicely browned, re- 
move, make a little gravy in the pan; pour this 
gravy over the meat, add the vegetables, and 
cook very slowly together until the meat is 
tender. If liked, it may be made with only 
potatoes and onions and meat. 

32. Turkish Stew. 

Fry a pound of meat cut in small pieces. 
Remove from the pan. In the same pan fry 
eggplant, thinly sliced and rolled in batter and 
crumbs. Season as desired. Put a layer of the 
fried eggplant and a layer of the fried meat in 
a cooking vessel. Add a little water, and cook 
very slowly until meat is tender. 



36 SAVORY DISHES. 

33. All Blaze. 

This is an old English dish, and is fine for 
the fireless cooker. Mutton is best for this 
dish. One pound of mutton, cut in bits, one- 
half pound of potatoes (quartered), peas, beans, 
onions, carrots, or any vegetables one may have 
on hand. Put a layer of potatoes at bottom of 
the pan, then a layer of meat, then a layer of 
mixed vegetables. Repeat this, sprinkling salt 
and pepper over each layer and a little drip- 
pings. Put in a vessel with a very tight-fitting 
lid, so that no steam will escape, and steam or 
bake slowly for three or four hours. 

34. Country Captain. 

This is another English dish, and is a great 
favorite with the Indian cooks. Chicken is 
always used in India, but veal or mutton will 
do nicely. Cut up the meat, slice four or five 
onions in rings, and set aside. Fry the chicken 
quickly over a hot fire, then fry the onions. 
With the onions fry some green chillies and a 
little green ginger; add a cup or two of water 
and stew until chicken is tender. Do not 
thicken the gravy to this. Sprinkle fried onions 
over the platter when it is ready to serve. 

35. Toad in Hole. 

Make a batter just as you would for pan- 
cakes. Melt some butter or crisco in a baking 



SAVORY DISHES. 37 

dish and pour in half the batter. On this place 
a mixture of meat, potatoes, and onions pre- 
pared as for No. 29. Pour over this the re- 
mainder of the batter and bake or steam. 

36. Minced Meat Patties. 

Prepare the mince according to No. 9. Make 
a piecrust, not too rich. Roll out paste, cut out 
in circles about three inches in diameter. Put 
in each of these circles a tablespoonful of the 
curried mince, and turn over, pressing the edges 
closely together. Fry or bake. 

37. Hamburg Cutlets. 

Take a pound of Hamburg steak, a minced 
onion, a minced mango pepper, a leaf or two of 
mint or coriander, a little salt and pepper, and 
very few bread or cracker crumbs. Mix all to- 
gether, mold in little oblong cakes, dip in a 
thin batter made of flour and water, and then 
in crumbs. Fry in fat or oil. 

38. Potato Patties with Fish or Meat. 

Take equal parts of cold mashed potatoes 
and flour. Work together into a paste and roll 
out in circles about four inches in diameter. 
Place in each of circles a spoonful of salmon or 
tuna; season rather highly, press edges together, 



38 SAVORY DISHES. 

and fry. Fine way to use cold mashed potatoes. 
Curried mincemeat may also be used for the 
filling. 

39. Beef Olives. 

Have the butcher cut a very thin round 
steak either of beef or veal. Cut this in pieces 
about three inches square, and pound with a 
saucer about a dessert-spoonful of flour into each 
of these pieces. Make a highly-seasoned force- 
meat of breadcrumbs and onions and a little 
minced bacon. Place a spoonful of the stuffing 
on each square of meat, and roll in the form of a 
sausage. Wrap each roll with cord and tie. Fry 
the rolls, then remove and make a gravy in the 
pan. When gravy is made, add the rolls and 
stew gently until the rolls are tender. 

40. Bird Nests. 

Stew a pound of boiling meat with two sliced 
onions until the meat is tender. Remove the 
meat and onions, and when cold pass through 
the meat grinder. Season rather highly, add 
egg and breadcrumbs, and work all together as 
though for cutlets. If flour is worked well into 
it, no egg or crumbs will be required. 

Boil six eggs until quite hard. When cold, 
remove the shells. Enclose each egg in the meat 
mixture. Roll in a thin batter, then in crumbs, 
and fry. When nicely browned, cut with a sharp 



SAVORY DISHES. 39 

knife through the center of each egg. Place on 
a platter, and pour over all a gravy made from 
the broth in which the meat was boiled. This 
makes twelve birds' nests. 

A very attractive and delicious salad can 
be made by using veal or chicken instead of 
beef. The yolks of the eggs may be removed 
and deviled or highly seasoned. Serve with 
mayonnaise dressing instead of gravy. 

41. Eggplant Patties. 

Take two medium-sized eggplants, steam or 
bake until tender; then cut lengthwise into 
halves. Scoop out the pulp, cut the pulp in 
small bits and set aside. Keep the skins for the 
patties. Mince an onion, brown it in oil or 
crisco. When nicely browned, add a quarter 
of a pound of either cold or raw minced meat, 
a little green mango pepper, and the pulp which 
was removed from the eggplant. A little Wor- 
cestershire sauce or piccalilli improves this 
considerably. Fill the empty shells with this 
mixture. Cover with crumbs and bake. Large 
ripe cucumbers are good prepared the same way. 
Only they should be peeled before steaming, 
and the seeds should be carefully removed. If 
a gravy could be made of stock and poured over 
the patties it would be liked by many. 



40 SAVORY DISHES. 

42. Spanish Steak. 

Pound thoroughly by means of a saucer a 
half cup of flour with a pound of round steak. 
Then over a hot fire quickly fry the steak and 
remove. 

In the same pan fry two good- sized onions, 
thinly sliced, and half a dozen good-sized 
tomatoes and one large mango pepper. If the 
pepper is mild, add cayenne pepper. When the 
onions begin to get soft and the tomatoes to dry, 
add the meat. Cook very slowly until meat is 
tender. 

One can use canned tomatoes very nicely 
for this. Cook onions and tomatoes and peppers 
together, with plenty of oil or crisco until they 
begin to thicken. Then add the meat. This is 
also a very satisfactory way of reserving cold 
steak or any kind of cold meat. After the 
tomato and onion mixture is well cooked, add 
the cold meat and heat up all together. 

43. Spanish Welsh Rarebit. 

Fry in plenty of oil or butter or crisco a 
large sliced onion. When onion is partly done, 
add a tin of tomato soup or a cupful of stewed 
strained tomatoes. Cook for a little while to- 
gether, then add half a pound of sharp cheese, 
three or four pimentoes, and a small tin of 
mushrooms; also add a tablespoonful of Wor- 



SAVORY DISHES. 41 

cestershire sauce. Cook all together slowly 
for a while, then pour over toast or crackers. 
This is also called "rinktum ditty. " 

44. Kabobs. 

This is a very popular dish among the Mo- 
hammedans. Kabobs are usually cooked by the 
roadside and served piping hot to pedestrians. 
They are also cooked on the platform of railway 
stations and handed out to passengers on the 
train. Season a pound of minced meat with 
pepper and salt or any desired spices. Mix 
with a little flour to hold together. Make in the 
form of sausages by pressing around iron pins. 
Roast over a hot fire. These are delicious cooked 
at picnics. One can easily purchase the iron 
pins or have them made. They are usually 
about a foot long and a quarter of an inch thick. 
If the meat is fat they easily slip from the pins; 
if it is lean, it is best to grease the pins first. 

45. Char-chiz. 

Fry together a cup of Hamburg steak, a 
cup of sliced tomatoes, a cup of minced onions, 
and a cup of minced peppers. After they have 
fried until dry, add a cup of water and simmer 
all together for a while. Make quite hot and 
serve with boiled rice. 



42 



SAVORY DISHES. 



46. Spanish Eggs, 

Fry the desired number of eggs very lightly 
in bacon fat. Just before removing from the 
pan pour over them a sauce made by adding a 
tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce to any 
good catsup. Heat hastily together and serve. 
This is a fine meat substitute. 




STRAINING STARCH 




III. 
Split Peas or Dal. 

Split peas, or "dal," as they are called in 
India, belong to the lentil family. There are 
three kinds — the green, which very much re- 
sembles an ordinary dried pea ; the yellow, and the 
red. In this country we only see two kinds — the 
green and the yellow. The red are more fre- 
quently seen in India, and have a more delicate 
flavor. 

Lentils are an old, old food- We read of 
Esau selling his birthright for a mess of red 
pottage, or a mess of red dal. Then later we 
read of the Hebrew children refusing to eat the 
king's meat, and growing rosy and fat on their 
daily portion of lentils. 

Lentils are rich in protein. About twenty- 
five per cent of their food value is protein. 
They are richer in protein than beans, and are 
more digestible. 

43 



44 SPLIT PEAS OR DAL. 

During Lent in the early days of the Roman 
Church, lentils were the chief article of food, 
because of meat being forbidden. Because of 
this the name lentil was given to them. 

Split peas are used universally throughout 
India. Several recipes have already been given 
(Nos. 23 and 7), but a few others will be noted. 

47. Split Pea Soup. 

Soak a cup of peas over night and boil in 
three cups of water. Cook until peas are soft, 
then mash them quite smoothly. Then dilute 
with stock. This stock may be made from bones 
and cold meat or fresh meat. Fry an onion and 
add to the soup, and when ready to serve add 
minced mint leaves and little squares of toast, 
fried very crisp. 

48. Dal Soup with Milk. 

Prepare the dal as above, except instead of 
diluting with stock dilute with milk. 

49. Kidgeri. 

First soak a cup of split peas for about 
three hours. Then put them on to stew with 
two whole onions. When about half done add 
a cup of rice. The water must be about two 
inches above the split peas and rice. Cook until 
rice and peas are soft and the water is absorbed. 



SPLIT PEAS OR DAL. 45 

Pour over all some melted butter or crisco. 
Usually kidgeri is served with poached eggs. 
Sometimes eggs are hard-boiled and sliced 
over the kidgeri after it is dished. 

50. Armenian Kidgeri. 

Soak a cup of split peas for several hours, 
then fry with two thinly-sliced onions and a cup 
of rice. When slightly brown, cover with water 
and boil. The water should be three inches 
above the peas and rice; also add a little bag 
of mixed spices. Fry some meat in a separate 
pan. It may be either beefsteak, Hamburg, or 
mutton. When rice and peas are soft, place a 
layer of meat in a dish and cover with a layer 
of the rice and peas. Repeat until all are used, 
being careful to have the rice and peas on top. 
Steam together and serve with cocoanut and 
fried onions sprinkled over the top. 

51. Dal Bhat. 

Dal Bhat is the universal breakfast dish all 
over India. Prepare as for split pea curry 
(No. 23), but omit the curry powder, if desired. 

Often it is prepared by frying minced meat 
with the onions before the peas are added. 

No food known gives as much real value for 
the cost as do lentils. The green and yellow 
ones can be obtained very easily at any large 
grocery, and we urge all to give them a trial. 



IV. 

Rice. 

As a rule rice is badly cooked in the average 
American home. For this reason last winter 
when there was a good deal of talk of rice as a 
substitute for potatoes, very 
little enthusiasm was felt on the 
subject, and indeed when one 
thinks of the tasteless, gummy 
mess which is so often put be- 
fore the family, this lack of en- 
thusiasm is not strange. How- 
ever, rice properly prepared 
proves quite 
a formid- 
able rival of 
the beloved 
potato, and 
there are 
endless 
ways of pre- 
paring it if 
BICE. Twcrrr one only 

knows how. 
In the first place, very few know how to 
cook just plain boiled rice. Many know that 
there is a way of preparing it so that when done 

46 




POUNDING 



RICE. 47 

it will be a fluffy mass of separate grains, but 
they have no idea how to go about making it 
look like this. 

The process is very simple. Always use the 
unpolished rice. Rice with a creamy tinge is 
better than rice with a pearly white tinge, and 
the long grain is better than the short. 

52. Plain Boiled Rice. 

For every cup of rice have about eight cups 
of water. Do not add the rice until the water 
is boiling briskly. Then throw in the rice, and 
give it an occasional stir until the water begins 
to boil again. After that it need not be stirred. 

Cook until a grain feels soft when rubbed 
between the thumb and finger, then turn into 
a colander. Drain off the water and pour over 
the rice several cups of cold water. Drain that 
off, too, and place the rice where it can have 
moist heat for a while before serving. A good 
plan is just to leave it in the colander and place 
it over a pan of boiling water ; or a steamer may 
be used for keeping it warm, or a double-boiler. 
By this method every grain is separate. Rice 
served with curry is always prepared in this 
way. It may be served in place of potatoes 
with meat, and may also be used as a basis for 
many inexpensive and attractive dishes, just as 
macaroni and spaghetti are. 

There is one objection, however, to rice pre- 



48 RICE. 

pared in this way. A good deal of the nutritive 
value is lost down the sink-drain. In India this 
is not the case, for every ounce of rice water is 
there carefully saved. It is used in various 
ways. Usually it is fed to the babies and 
weaker children. Often it is given to ducks and 
fowl to fatten them, and sometimes it is put 
into the curry pot. 

There is another method of preparing rice 
which is almost as satisfactory, and by which 
all the nutrition is retained. That is by cooking 
it in a regular rice boiler. Put just enough water 
over the rice to well cover it. After the water 
in the lower vessel has boiled a while, if the rice 
seems a little dry, add more water. Cook until 
the rice is soft, then turn the fire very low, so 
that the water in the lower vessel does not boil 
but retains its heat. Let stand for a while be- 
fore serving, and the rice will be almost as 
fluffy and white as though blanched by the cold 
water process. 

53. Baby's Pesh-Pash. 

This is the first solid food that babies of 
English or American parents in India are al- 
lowed. 

Take about a quarter of a pound of lean 
mutton and cook until it is perfectly soft. 
Shred it finely and return to the broth. Cook a 
tablespoonful of rice in this broth and shredded 



RICE. 49 

mutton. Cook slowly and let every grain swell 
to its utmost. "Babies cry for it, and the doc- 
tors pronounce it harmless/ ' It is also very 
good for the convalescent. 

54. Pullao. 

Pullao is the most festive dish in India. It 
stands for all that roast turkey does in this 
country. At weddings, feasts, and holidays it 
is the chief dish. Among the Hindustani 
Christians it is the Christmas dinner. Some- 
times it is served with rivers of hot curry flow- 
ing over it, but often it is eaten without the 
curry. In India it is usually made with 
chicken, but any kind of meat does nicely. 

For chicken pullao, take a good fat hen, not 
too old, cut up and stew until almost tender. 
Put a little bag of "mixed spices," such as are 
used in making pickles, on to cook with the fowl. 
While the fowl is cooking take about a pound 
of rice and fry it with a few sliced onions and 
a little butter or crisco. When the chicken is 
nearly done, add the fried rice and onions to 
the chicken and chicken broth. Put all in a 
rice boiler if you have it and cook slowly until 
the rice is done. Retain the spices. If rice 
boiler is used there should be at least two inches 
of broth above the mixture. If you have no 
rice boiler, but must boil it on the stove, more 
broth will be required. In the latter case do 



50 RICE. 

not cook until it becomes soggy. Cook until 
the broth is absorbed, then steam. 

While the rice is cooking fry a few more 
onions with a handful of almonds and raisins. 
When the pullao is ready to be served, pile on 
a platter, then strew thickly over the pullao the 
fried onions, almonds, and raisins. Last of all, 
sprinkle generously with cocoanut. 

55. Beef or Mutton Pullao. 

Very delicious pullao may be made from the 
cheapest cuts of beef and mutton. Get about 
two pounds of beef or mutton, cut in bits. Cook 
until it is very tender. Boil with this a little 
bag of mixed spices and two onions. Unless 
the meat has a good deal of fat, use crisco, or oil. 
Two cups of rice will be the right amount to 
use with two pounds of meat. Use the same 
method that is used in making chicken pullao. 
Fresh cocoanut is always delicious strewn over 
pullao, and if curry is used with it, have cocoa- 
nut in the curry. 

56. Spanish Rice. 

Fry 3 onions, 6 tomatoes, 2 peppers or pi- 
mentoes together. They must all be cut into 
small bits. In another pan fry a cup of rice in a 
very little oil or crisco. After the rice has 
browned a little, add the two together, turn into 



RICE. 51 

a rice boiler or steamer and cook until rice is 
tender. A half cupful of grated or diced cheese 
is an improvement to this dish. In case to- 
matoes are not in season, a can of tomatoes, or, 
better, a large-sized can of tomato soup will do 
nicely. In that case fry the onions and peppers 
and rice together. Then add the cheese and 
tomatoes. 

57. Pea Pullao. 

Take two cups of cold boiled rice, add to it 
two cups of freshly shelled peas. Pour over 
the mixture a half cupful of milk or cream; add 
a tablespoonful of butter or crisco, and cook in a 
rice boiler or steamer until the peas are nicely 
done. A few bay leaves and black pepper grains 
are an improvement to this dish. 

58. Cocoanut Rice. 

Take a cup of rice, mix it into half a grated 
cocoanut. A ten-cent tin of Baker's cocoanut 
does very nicely if one doesn't care to prepare 
the fresh cocoanut. Boil the rice and cocoanut 
together, being sure to add to the water the 
cocoanut milk. There should be about three 
inches of liquid above the rice. Color the liquid 
yellow with a little turmeric; add salt, six cloves, 
two cardamon seeds, and twelve pepper berries. 
Cook in a rice boiler or steamer until done. 



52 RICE. 

59. Meat and Rice Hash. 

A very nice way of making hash is to use 
rice instead of potatoes. Take cold meat and 
gravy and stew together with onion. When the 
onion is nearly done, add to the broth the rice. 
A quarter as much uncooked rice as there is 
meat is a good proportion. Cook all together 
until rice is thoroughly done. Be sure and have 
plenty of liquid to start with. This is much 
better than meat and potato hash. 

60. Rice Cutlets. 

Left-over pullao or kidgeri or meat and rice 
hash make fine cutlets. Mold, roll in crumbs, 
and fry in the usual way. 

61. Fried Rice (Parsi). 

(A fine dish for a missionary tea.) 

Fry a cup of uncooked rice and a cup of 
brown sugar in a tablespoonful of butter or 
crisco. Cook until the sugar melts and begins 
to bubble; then quickly add two cups of boiling 
water. Simmer over a slow fire, or, better still, 
in a rice boiler until rice is thoroughly cooked. 
It can hardly be cooked too much. Remove 
from the fire, pour over all a half ounce of rose 
water and stir well. Press in plates and sprinkle 
well with minced almonds, or any kind of nuts 
will do. Also add a few cardamon seeds. When 



RICE. 



53 



cold, cut into squares and serve like fudge. 
This is a very satisfactory little sweetmeat when 
one wants a foreign dish. It is easily prepared 
and very inexpensive. 




V. 

Bujeas. 

Bujeas are always made from vegetables. 
They are usually eaten with the native bread 
instead of rice. Here again the everlasting 

onion is in evidence, 
for bujeas are always 
fried with onions. 
They are made from 
any kind of vege- 
tables or green tops 
of vegetables. Po- 
tato bujea is one of 
the most popular. 

62. Potato Bujea. 

To a pound of po- 
tatoes take two me- 
dium sized onions and 
one green mango 
pepper. If the pepper 
cannot be had, use 
AM INDIAN PRfNCE the tops of onions and 

a little cayenne. Fry 
the onions, and when nicely browned add the 
potatoes and peppers. If potatoes are medium- 
sized, cut each potato in four pieces. Add four 
tablespoonfuls of water and if hot food is liked, 
a good sprinkle of cayenne. If more water is 

54 




BUJEAS. 55 

needed, add a couple of tablespoonfuls more. 
Cook very slowly. Use plenty of oil or crisco 
in frying the onions. This is good with old 
potatoes, but is best with new ones. Tiny new 
potatoes are fine cooked in this way. They do 
not need to be scraped. Just washed thoroughly 
and cooked whole. 

63. Banana Bujea. 

Take half a dozen not too ripe bananas, cut 
them in pieces, and allow them to lie in weak 
salt water for a while. Slice two green mango 
peppers and half an inch of green ginger; also 
cut in tiny bits a clove of garlic. Brown a 
sliced onion in butter or crisco. Then add the 
bananas, peppers, etc. When the fruit softens 
stir in half a cup of cocoanut; any unsweetened 
kind will do. Cook a few minutes longer. 

64. Summer Squash Bujea. 

First peal the summer squash. Then cut in 
very thin slices. Fry an onion and sliced green 
pepper together; then add the summer squash. 
Add very little water. Simmer until done. 

65. Cabbage Bujea. 

Cabbage bujea is made just as other bujeas 
are, excepting it is usually acidulated. Some- 
times fresh cocoanut is cooked with the cabbage 
and sometimes a little shredded salt fish is 
added. 



56 BUJEAS. 

66. Radish Bujea. 

In India radishes are cooked just as other 
vegetables, and radish bujea is very popular. 
Peppers are not used in making this, but the 
young tender leaves of the radish plant are used 
instead. While the onion is frying, parboil the 
leaves, drain them, and add them to the sliced 
radishes and onions. 

67. Tomato Bujea. 

This is a fine bujea. One never cares for 
meat when this is served. Fry a large sliced 
onion and a mango pepper together until nicely 
browned. Remove from the pan and fry in the 
same pan six sliced not too ripe tomatoes. 
These should be dipped in batter and then 
breadcrumbs before frying. When tomatoes are 
nicely browned add onions and peppers. Do 
not add any water to this bujea. Heat very 
slowly until well blended. 

Eggplant, okra, pumpkin, string beans, 
cauliflower, in fact most any vegetable may 
be cooked in this way. One general rule will 
suffice: Fry the onions first in plenty of crisco 
or oil. If desired, fry also top of onions. Then 
add prepared vegetables and a little water. In 
most bujaes, peppers or pimentoes are used. 
Cook slowly. Vegetables like eggplant had 
better be soaked in weak salt water before 
cooking. 




GRINDING WHEAT 



©S^ 




VI. 

Breads. 

Bujeas are always eaten with native bread. 
For these breads the flour is always ground in 
the home. The mill used is exceedingly prim- 
itive. It consists of two large circular stones, 
one fitting into the socket of the other. By re- 
volving the upper stone over the lower the grain 
which is poured between the stones is crushed. 
It is the women of India who do the grinding, 
and "two women grinding at a mill" is a familiar 
sight everywhere throughout the land. 

The bread made from this home-made flour 
differs very much from the bread we know. It is 
not made into loaves, but into little flat cakes, 
which are baked over coals on a griddle. No 
yeast is used. 

Although India is one of the greatest wheat 
countries in all the world, the great majority of 
people in India do not eat wheat bread. They 

57 



58 BREADS. 

are too poor for that. They eat bread made 
from the flour of coarser grains. Some of these 
grains, such as millet and rye, we are familiar 
with; others are quite unknown to us. Corn 
and oats are but little used in India. 

The bread made from these coarse grains is 
hard to digest. It is made by simply mixing the 
flour with water. The dough is then patted into 
little cakes. The bread made from wheat, how- 
ever, is much finer, and Europeans living in 
India soon grow to be very fond of it. Some of 
the varieties would not be practical in this 
country. However, a few forms of Hindustani 
bread are quite easily managed here, and will 
well be worth a trial. 

68. Chupatties. 

Take a pound of whole wheat and mix it 
with water until a soft dough is formed. Knead 
this well. Put a damp cloth over it, and let it 
stand an hour or so. Then knead again. Make 
out into balls, each ball about as big as a walnut. 
Then roll each ball into a flat cake about as 
big around as a saucer. Bake these cakes one 
at a time over a very thick iron griddle that has 
been well heated. Keep turning them over and 
over while they are baking. Fold them up in a 
napkin as they are baked and keep in a warm 
place. The inside pan of a double boiler is a 
good place for them. To be properly made 



BREADS. 59 

these cakes should be patted into shape instead 
of rolled, and the Hindustani women always 
do it that way. These chupatties are eaten with 
bujeas and curries. 

69. Chupatties (Americanized). 

Make a dough from a pound of whole wheat 
flour, a half teaspoonful of baking powder, and 
a little salt. Knead well and let stand. When 
ready to bake them, divide into balls as big as 
a walnut. Roll each out, spread a little oil or 
crisco over it; fold up and roll again. Grease 
an iron griddle and bake, turning from side to 
side. These are not actually fried, but the crisco 
in them and the greased griddle prevents them 
from getting hard, as they are apt to do if made 
according to No. 68. 

70. Prahatas. 

This is a very rich and satisfying form of 
native bread. Take a pound of whole wheat 
and make a dough according to No. 68. Divide 
the dough into eight equal parts and make each 
part into a ball. Flatten each ball a little and 
spread with crisco. Double it up and repeat 
this three or four times; then roll thin and fry. 
Use as little grease in frying as is possible. 

Puris. 

Puris are similar in appearance to chu- 
patties, except they are fried instead of baked. 



60 BREADS. 

71. Potato Puris. 

Equal parts of mashed potatoes and flour, 
mixed to a paste and rolled very thin. Make 
each puri about as large as a saucer. Fry as 
you would fritters. These sound rather ex- 
pensive, and they do take a good deal of fat; 
but they are to be eaten without butter. Eat 
with curry. Nothing else will be needed at a 
meal where these puris and curry are served, for 
they are very satisfying. 

72. White Flour Puris. 

Knead for ten minutes a dough made from 
a pound of fine white flour and water. Let 
stand four or five hours. Divide into little 
balls and roll until they are as thin as paper. 
Fry as you would fritters. 

73. Sweet Potato Puris. 

Take equal parts of mashed sweet potatoes 
and whole wheat. Work together into a soft 
dough. Roll out into cakes, but not too thin. 
Fry in as little grease as possible. 



VII. 

Pickles and Chutneys. 

74. Kausaundi Pickle (Americanized). 

This is a very sour pickle. In India it is 
always made with sliced green mango, but in 

this country very sour 
green apples and lemons 
do very nicely. 

Slice thinly four lem- 
ons. Sprinkle well with 
salt. Cover with vin- 
egar, and let stand for 
about a month. 

Slice thinly four very 
tart apples, two onions, 
six large sour cucumber 
pickles, and three large 
red peppers. After 
they are sliced mix in- 
timately, then add two 
tablespoonfuls of ground 
mustard seed, a little 
salt, and, if the peppers 
are mild, a little cayenne pepper; also add two 
tablespoonfuls of thinly-sliced green ginger and 
one tablespoonful of finely-minced garlic. 

61 




THE 5NAKE CHARMER 



62 PICKLES AND CHUTNEYS. 

Drain the salt and vinegar from the lemons 
and add them to the rest of the mixture. 

Roast two tablespoonfuls of turmeric until 
the raw taste is taken away, then mix with it 
two tablespoonfuls of ground mustard; add to 
this a cup of salad and a cup of vinegar. Mix 
well together and pour over the pickles. 
If there is not enough oil and vinegar to cover 
it, add equal parts of each until the pickle is 
well covered. 

This pickle is not to be cooked, but it is 
best to let it stand in the sun for a number of 
days. If there is no sun, the warming oven 
would do. It keeps indefinitely, and is very 
appetizing. It is fine for sandwiches. A little 
in Spanish steak or curry adds much to the flavor. 




VIII. 

Chutney. 

Chutney is a sort of a combination pickle 
and preserve. It is usually made rather sweetly 
and very hot, and is eaten with curry and rice. 
It is, however, a fine relish with all kinds of 
meats. In India it is usually made of the 
sliced green mango; but of course we haven't 
mangoes here, so we have to use what we can 
get. Any tart fruit makes good chutney. 

75. Lemon Chutney. 

Cut a pound of lemons in twelve bits each, 
and cook in vinegar and a very little salt until 
the rinds are perfectly tender. Drain. 

Dissolve a pound of sugar in a quart of 
vinegar; put in the lemons and cook until the 
mixture becomes thick like jam. Then add a 
teaspoonful of cayenne pepper (or less), two 

63 



64 CHUTNEY. 

tablespoonfuls of minced ginger, two table- 
spoonfuls of mustard seed, and a pound of raisins. 
Mix all together and boil ten minutes longer. 

76. Apple Chutney. 

Boil together three pounds of sliced apples, 
two pounds of sugar, and a quart of strong 
vinegar. When this begins to get like jam, add 
half a pound of raisins, four teaspoonfuls of 
finely-minced garlic, two tablespoonfuls of thinly- 
sliced green ginger, one teaspoonf ul of red pepper, 
and one ounce of mustard seed. Let simmer 
a while, then bottle and expose to the sun. 
Apricot chutney is delicious made the same way, 
with the addition of several ounces of apricot 
pits, blanched and minced. 

77. Rhubarb Chutney. 

Make just like apple chutney, only use less 
vinegar. In addition to the raisins and other 
ingredients, add a teacupful of finely-minced 
and blanched almonds. This is worth trying. 
Less red pepper might be used. 

78. Carrot Pickle. 

Cut the carrots any way that is desired. If 
they are very small they need not be cut at all. 
Sprinkle them well with salt and dry them in 



CHUTNEY. 65 

the sun for three days, being careful not to 
forget to bring them in at night. For a pound of 
carrots take a tablespoonful of mustard seed, 
half a dozen peppers (sliced), two tablespoonfuls 
of green ginger (sliced), and two garlics (finely 
minced). Cover with vinegar. These are ex- 
cellent. 

79. Mixed Vegetable Pickle. 

Eggplant, radishes, onions, carrots, peppers, 
all are largely used in making pickles in India. 
They are chopped, sprinkled with salt, and dried 
for several days in the hot sunshine. Mustard 
seed, turmeric, and minced garlic are usually 
added. After several days of sunning they are 
bottled, covered with vinegar which has been 
boiled, but which has been cooled. 



IX. 

Most Everything. 

Many of the cooks in India make a very 
simple puff paste. 

80. Puff Paste. 

Make a dough out of a pound of flour and 
sufficient water. Knead for fifteen minutes. 
Roll in a damp cloth 
and set aside. 

After an hour or so 
knead again. Then add 
a spoonful of shorten- 
ing at a time until the 
dough begins to crack 
and looks rough. 

Roll out in a sheet, 
cut in four pieces, place 
one upon the other, roll 
again, cut in four pieces 
again. Repeat this four 
times, then roll it into 
a sheet, spread it with 
shortening of some 
kind, cut in four pieces, 
and place one over the 
other. Then roll for 

the last time. The advantage of this method is 
that it takes comparatively little shortening 

66 




MOST EVERYTHING. 67 

and is always light and flaky. It makes a de- 
licious pastry for cheese cakes. 

81. Cheese Cakes. 

Place two cups of pure milk over the fire 
and when the milk begins to boil squeeze the 
juice of a lemon into it. The milk will at once 
curdle. Drain off the curds. To these curds 
add the yolks of two eggs, a tablespoonful of 
butter, a small cup of sugar, and a small cup of 
ground almonds. Walnuts, pecans, or any other 
nuts would do all right. 

Mix all together smoothly. Line little patty 
pans with the paste (No. 80), and fill with the 
curds. Dust powdered sugar over the top and 
decorate with crossbars of pastry. Bake very 
slowly. 

These cheese cakes are always much in 
evidence at afternoon teas, garden parties, and 
all social functions in India. 

82. Banana Stew with Cocoanut. 

Boil six bananas. To boil bananas do not 
remove the skins. Just pour enough boiling 
water over them to cover them. Add a little 
salt to the water. As soon as the skins crack 
they are done. Remove and cool. When cool, 
take off the skins, scrape the bananas a little 
and split them. 



68 MOST EVERYTHING. 

Make a syrup of one cup of sugar and half 
a cup of fresh cocoanut and half a cup of water. 
Pour this over the boiled bananas and serve. 
This dish is much appreciated by the children. 

Roselles. 

Roselles are a fruit belonging to the sorrell 
family. The seed is sown in the vegetable gar- 
den every year when other seeds are sown. The 
plants have a vigorous growth. They grow as 
tall or a little taller than currant bushes. Long 
before the season is over the bushes are vivid 
with wine-red flowers. From the waxen petals 
of these flowers very delicious sauces, jams, 
chutneys, and jellies are made. 

Roselles can be grown any place as easily as 
tomatoes or cabbage or any vegetable. It 
would certainly pay any one to make the ex- 
periment. The fruit is very rich in pectin, and 
not only gives a beautiful color when combined 
with any other fruit, but also adds much to the 
flavor. Combined with peaches or strawberries, 
cherries or guavas, or any other fruit that is 
deficient in pectin, the roselle has very satis- 
factory results. 

When used by themselves a fine jelly is 
made which is far superior to currant jelly. I 
am sure any one will feel repaid who gives it a 
trial. The seeds can be purchased from any 
large dealer. 



MOST EVERYTHING. 69 

83. Roselle Jelly. 

Remove the petals of the flower from the 
seed; then mince finely by running through the 
meat grinder. To every cup of minced petals 
add three cups of water. Boil quickly as the 
color is much better if it does not stand around. 
After boiling about five minutes it will be ready 
to strain. Strain and make as any other jelly. 
In flavor and appearance this jelly can not be 
surpassed. 

84. Roselle Sauce. 

Remove petals from the seed, and for every 
cup of petals take two cups of water. Stew 
gently for a few minutes, then add a cup of 
sugar for every cup of fruit. These two things 
must be remembered if one wishes to get the 
best results from the fruit. It must be well 
diluted and it must be cooked quickly, as it is 
apt to lose its bright color if it stands around. 

Tipparees. 

Tipparees, or cape gooseberries, are also 
another fruit which is much neglected in this 
country. To many they are familiarly known 
as ground cherries. These are much prized in 
India, and they really are a fine fruit, which can 
be grown any place and will more than repay 
the little time spent in their cultivation. In 
India the seeds are sown annually. I think in 



70 MOST EVERYTHING. 

this country it seeds itself for a few years at 
least, but I am sure better results would be 
brought about if the seeds were planted every 
spring. 

This berry is unequaled for making jam. 
If any doubt it, buy ten cents' worth of seed 
next spring, plant it in your garden. Let the 
plants grow and spread and in the early fall 
make jam according to the following: 

85. Tipparee Jam. 

Husk the fruit and prick each berry. Do 
not add too much water, as the fruit is very 
juicy. Cook until fruit is tender, but not broken. 
For every cup of fruit allow a cup of sugar. Cook 
rapidly and not too much at a time. It finishes 
up very quickly. A good plan is to cook only 
partially, turn onto platters, and expose to the 
sun as one does any other sun preserve. 

Tipparees are fine for making pies and tarts. 

86. Orange Marmalade. 

This marmalade can be made from oranges 
or lemons or grape fruit, or by combining the 
three, or by combining any two of them. 

Either slice the fruit very thinly or run it 
through a meat grinder. For every cup of 
fruit take three cups of water. Let it stand for 
twenty-four hours. Then boil it in the same 



MOST EVERYTHING. 71 

water until the rinds are soft. Let stand an- 
other twenty-four hours in the same water. 
Then measure again and for every cup of mixture 
take a cup of sugar. The best results are ob- 
tained if not over four cupfuls are boiled at a 
time. Boil rapidly. If citrus fruits are boiled 
slowly they are apt to grow dark and strong. 
If oranges are used alone for this marmalade 
they must be sour. A good combination is four 
oranges, two lemons, and half a grapefruit. 

87. Orange Jelly. 

Mince the oranges, rind and all. For every 
cup of oranges take three of water. Let stand 
in water for twenty-four hours. Boil until fruit 
is soft and let stand again for another twenty- 
four hours. Up to this point the process is 
exactly like No. 86. 

Now drain the juice from the fruit. Acid- 
ulate with lemon juice. If six oranges have 
been used, add the juice of two lemons. To 
each cup of juice take a cup of sugar. Boil 
about four cupfuls at a time and boil quickly. 
It will soon become jelly. A cup of roselle juice 
diluted is better to acidulate with than the 
lemon juice. A beautiful ruby jelly is the result. 

88. Candied Grapefruit Peel. 

Cut the grapefruit peel in sections. About 
eight pieces to a grapefruit is a good size. Prick 



72 MOST EVERYTHING. 

each piece and soak for three days. If the 
weather is very hot, better scald the fruit in- 
stead of soaking it. Change water every morn- 
ing and evening. On the morning of the fourth 
day boil the skins until they can be easily 
pierced. Remove them and squeeze them as dry 
as possible. Place them on a tray and sun them 
for several hours, or else dry them in an expir- 
ing oven. Weigh the peels, and take once and 
a half their weight in sugar. Make this sugar 
with water into a thick syrup ; then add the peels 
and boil until they look clear. Take them out 
and boil the syrup until it is quite thick. Return 
the peels and stir around and around until the 
sugar candies over them. Put them to dry in 
the sun for a day. Orange and lemon peal, water- 
melon rind, green muskmelons, and almost any 
kind of fruit can be preserved in the same way. 

89. Banana Cheese. 

Take a dozen ripe bananas, skin them, and 
mash them up with a cup of cream of wheat and 
a cup of sugar; also add a tablespoonful of 
butter and a little cinnamon. Cook slowly for 
about three hours in a double boiler. When 
cold cut as you would cheese. Fine for mission- 
ary functions. 

90. Carrot Cheese. 

Boil a pound of carrots until very tender. 
Then mash them perfectly smooth. Mix with. 



MOST EVERYTHING. 73 

them a pound of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, 
and the juice of a large lemon. Also add a few 
cardamon seeds. Cook over a slow fire until the 
mixture hardens into a paste. Add a little 
more butter just before removing from the fire. 
Press into shallow pans and cut in neat squares 
or diamonds like fudge. 

91. Fruit Cheese. 

Any fruit may be made into a confection 
which, in India, is called "cheese." The fruit 
part first wants to be reduced to a pulp. Then 
take equal parts of fruit pulp and sugar, with as 
much butter as you feel you dare use. If you 
feel that you dare not use any, use crisco with 
salt. Cook down until it becomes a paste that 
can be cut with a knife. It must cook very 
slowly. Sometimes when nearly finished nuts 
are added. In apricot cheese the kernels are 
used. They must be blanched and minced. 
Guava cheese is perhaps the finest, as the flavor 
improves much with cooking. 

92. "Fools." 

A fool is a drink made of fruit pulp and milk. 
Mango fool is perhaps the most popular. Fools 
are always best made of tart unripe fruits. 
Pare, slice, and stew the fruit until it is quite 
soft. Strain through a fine sieve or coarse 
muslin. Add to the pulp as much sugar as is 
desired and enough water to make it pour easily. 



U MOST EVERYTHING. 

Boil for a few minutes and turn into a jug. 
When ready to drink it, fill the glass about half 
full of the fruit mixture and then fill with rich 
milk. Add ice. These "fools" are very nutri- 
tious and refreshing. Often in the hot weather 
one cares for little else. 

Hindustani Sweets. 

Hindustani sweets are very sweet, very 
sticky, very greasy, and very dear to the heart 
of India's children, both old and young. We do 
not advise a steady diet of these, but it is well 
to know how some of them are made, as such 
knowledge always comes- in handy when ar- 
ranging for missionary programs, Oriental booths 
in bazaars, and at frequent other times. 

93. Jellabies (Best Beloved). 

Make a batter of one pound of flour and 
water. Make it just about as thick as you 
would for pancakes. Cover the vessel tightly 
and let stand for three days. Then stir in about 
a half a cup of thick sour milk. Pour a little 
of this batter into a vessel with a hole in the 
bottom. In India a cup made from half a cocoa- 
nut shell is made for this purpose, one of the 
eyes in the monkey face at the end being per- 
forated. Fill this cup with batter and let the 
batter run through a little at a time into a pan 
of boiling fat. While the batter ; s running out 
through the hole keep the hand moving in a 



MOST EVERYTHING. 75 

circle, so that the jellabies will take the form of 
pretzels. Fry as you would doughnuts. 

In the meantime have a dish of syrup ready. 
Make this syrup from a pound of brown sugar 
and water. Cook it until it is about as thick as 
maple syrup. Keep this syrup in a warm place 
and as the jellabies fry place each one for a few 
minutes in the syrup. Remove and pile them 
on oiled paper until needed. These are sure to 
make a hit. Be sure and fry them until they 
are quite brown. If one doesn't want to bother 
with the batter standing around for three days, 
they can be made up at once by adding a tea- 
spoonful of baking powder to the mixture and 
beating it well. The milk must not be too sour 
in that case. 

94. Gulab Jamans. 

Take a pound of rice flour. If one cannot 
obtain rice flour use common flour. Put it in 
a bowl. Crack into it two eggs, add a little 
salt, and enough cocoanut and cocoanut milk 
to make a soft dough. Use a ten-cent tin of 
Baker's fresh cocoanut for this. Knead w r ell 
and cover for a little while with a damp cloth. 
After a while mold this dough into little balls 
about the size and shape of pecans. You will 
have to keep your fingers oiled while doing this. 
Fry them as you would doughnuts. Let stand 
until perfectly cold. 



76 MOST EVERYTHING. 

Weigh them, and for every pound take a 
quarter of a pound of white sugar. Make this 
sugar into a syrup. When thick put in the 
gulab jamans and stir them for a few minutes. 
When they are well frosted, remove. Spread 
out on oiled paper. These are really very nice. 
Any kind of little cakes and nuts can be frosted 
the same way. The syrup should be allowed to 
cool a little before the cakes are put in it. 

95. Malpuas. 

Make a batter of one pound of cream of 
wheat and water. This batter should be very 
thick Let stand two days. Then add a cup of 
grated cocoanut, a cup of small raisins, two eggs, 
a cup of sugar, half a cup of curds, and a little 
flour. Fry as you would pancakes. These are 
to be eaten cold. These are also very nice to 
serve at functions. If each one of these little 
cakes is made the size of a dollar, a large number 
could be prepared. A heavy aluminum griddle 
is very nice for frying these, as they would then 
require but little fat. 

96. Crows' Nest Fritters. 

Pare and cut in very small strips a pound of 
sweet potatoes. Steam until a little soft," but 
not entirely so. Make a batter of flour, two 
eggs, and water. Put a tablespoonful of batter 
on a well-greased griddle, then a tablespoonful 



MOST EVERYTHING. 77 

of the potatoes. Cover these with another 
tablespoonful of batter. When done on one 
side, turn. Eat with melted brown sugar and 
butter or with syrup. 

97. Hulwa. 

Fry a cupful of cream of wheat in half a 
cup of butter or crisco. When it begins to have 
a nutty flavor and to be slightly brown, add 
three cups of water and one cup of sugar and a 
few of the small inside seeds of the cardamon. 
Boil slowly until it forms a thick rich paste. 
Press into square cake pans and sprinkle over 
the top minced nuts and also raisins, if desired. 
Cut in squares like fudge. Very good and 
wholesome. 

98. Bombay Hulwa. 

Bombay hulwa is noted all over India, 
Soak a pound of cream of wheat in enough 
water to cover it. Let it stand three or four 
hours. Then rub it through a coarse strong 
cloth until you get all the starch out. To do 
this you must keep dipping the cloth in water 
again and again. Let this water stand until 
the starch has settled, then pour off the water. 
Make two pounds of white sugar into a syrup. 
Boil until it reaches the fondant stage, then add 
the cream of wheat starch, and keep boiling 
and stirring until it forms into a lump. Then 
add about half a pound of butter. Crisco will 



78 MOST EVERYTHING. 

do as well if salt is used with it. Go on cooking 
the hulwa until it begins to, get so hard that 
you can hardly manage it. Then add a wine- 
glass of rose water, some blanched and shredded 
almonds and the little inside seeds of half a 
dozen cardamons. Delicious and nourishing, 
but rather expensive. 

99. Turkish Delight. 

This popular confection is made by a similar 
method to No. 98, excepting gum arabic is 
used instead of cream of wheat starch. The 
right proportion is about an ounce of powdered 
gum arabic to two pounds of sugar. The butter 
also is omitted at the last, but the almond, rose 
water, and cardamon seed are usually added. 
Press into plates, cut in squares, and roll each 
square in powdered sugar. 

There is an easier way, however, to make it. 
Melt gum-drops. This is easily done by adding 
a little water and boiling, or by keeping hot in a 
double boiler or fireless cooker for a while. 

Add the almonds and cardamons and lemon 
or orange juice if desired. Dust powdered sugar 
in a square pan. Press in the paste, dust pow- 
dered sugar over the top. Cut in squares. 

100. Frosted Bananas. 

Use rather green bananas for this. Peel, 
slice crosswise, sprinkle lightly with salt and 



MOST EVERYTHING. 79 

fry. Be careful to keep them whole and not to 
burn them. Allow them to get thoroughly cold, 
then frost as directed for gulab jamans (No. 94). 

101. Sujee Puffs. 

Make the paste according to No. 80. To 
make the mince heat a cupful of cream of wheat 
in a little butter. Do not fry this brown, but 
heat all through. Stir into this half a cup of 
dessicated cocoanut, two tablespoonfuls of 
small seedless raisins, two tablespoonfuls of 
almonds (blanched and sliced), and the seed of 
six cardamons. Cook this mixture for a few 
minutes, then add a cup of sugar and cook for 
a few minutes longer. This will not be a paste, 
for no water has been added ; so don't think it 
is not right if it is very crumbly; that is the way 
it ought to be. Roll the paste out not too thin, 
cut in circles with a pound-baking-powder tin. 
Put as much of the sweetmeat as you think you 
can enclose, fold over, make as fancy as you 
like, and either fry or bake. 

This is a favorite sweet at native weddings. 

102. Breadcrumb Balls. 

Mix dry breadcrumbs and grated cocoanut 
together, and a few raisins, too, if liked. Take 
a cup of sugar and half a cup of water, and boil. 
When syrup has reached the stage that it forms 
a hard ball in water, pour over the breadcrumb 



80 



MOST EVERYTHING. 



mixture. Mold as if making popcorn balls. If 
one likes, these may be rolled in powdered sugar 
afterward. These are also a very fine sweet for 
social and missionary functions of all kinds. 

103. Sujee Biscuit. 

One pound of cream of wheat and one pound 
of sugar mixed intimately; then add half a cup 
of lard or crisco and knead awhile. Form into 
little balls and shape the balls as desired. 
Usually they are simply flattened out into 
squares. Bake a light brown. Be careful that 
they are not crowded in the pan. 




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